What is Givenchy Eating? | GQ

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hmmI sat down with billions of other people at the Givenchy show on Saturday night under a glowing oval light in a Paris arena. Yes Yes.

I was thinkinghmm“Odd quality to exist. As you can see, Young Thug’s “original score” (in the words of creative director Matthew Williams), excellent California kids’ casting (long shiny hair!), big-belly foam shoes and backpacks to laundry bags. The promotion was a fluent product. The consistency of themes to free black lemon bottoms. In other words, the show had everything appropriate for Williams’ successful live runway debut, which marks the start of 2020. Joined the house at the end of the summer and have been building digital collections ever since. I really love it.

So why did everything feel like this…hmm??

Interestingly, many people who watched the show on Instagram alone liked it. Williams is a playground for elegant and antiquated chic under fashion leaders such as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, Dark Princesses, and Williams’ predecessor Clare Waight Keller. It naturally fits into a dedicated brand. However, in reality, it was difficult to reconcile these clothes to the pervasive mood of sensuality and freedom that took over not only the fashion world but pop culture as well. The problem with freezing is that it’s very easy to slip into the cold.

There was something odd about her collaboration with New York-based Tennessee-born artist Josh Smith. Smith’s sunset and palm tree attitude and rich Mattis tone are a great spiritual match for Williams, who appears to be playing table tennis among the edgy residents of remote California and the city. However, these days there has been a slight lack of collaboration with the fine arts, so the work requires some kind of precision. Apparently, Williams met Smith through the David Zwarner gallery. (It’s also rumored that he’s dating Zwirner’s daughter, Marlene.) It’s probably a bit too betrayal for the collaboration.

Givenchy etiquette.
Givenchy etiquette.

The next day when I went to the showroom, I felt something different. If you look closely, the details are great, like a men’s blazer with sleeves at the shoulders and padding and a layered rubber cake. Some pieces are weird (men’s thigh-high boots? To be honest, that’s fine!). And Smith’s apparel is a good chunky fodder, especially jeans and a turtleneck, as well as a rope-like handmade hoodie that looks like a Baja hoodie for art lovers. Apparently, Art Basel, painted by Josh Smith, is a customer of Hopping Jeans. Of course, Givenchy’s atelier is a beacon of craftsmanship, and innovation-savvy Williams has blown the team into weird new zippers, tiny bloomer panties, weird outer space-like fabric, and a little passion. You can see the details. If you are not just a slim body but have a surmin outfit, then this outfit will suit you very well. It’s clothing for those who have trained themselves to strain muscle tissue through a relentless juicing (or goth lemonade and leafy vegetable). Menswear is a bit more forgiving, but the durable hoodie and tailored jacket feel the strongest, as do the basic palette of accessories.

So what hmm?? Williams is clearly circling McQueen and is a longtime friend and collaborator of Kanye West. (Many other contestants compared Yeezy Season 1 to the dreamy soundtrack that Williams worked on.) These often ditched the dark psychology, drama, and intense sadness. Economic or spiritual waste that is always there to be used. I don’t know if Williams needs to go that far. Wetkeler’s predecessor, Riccardo Tisci, was a serious ruler of dark pop fashion, but always seemed quite cheerful. You don’t have to put the devil on the runway to rock your clothes. Waight Keller was much more a classicist, the product of a fashion system that thought and dreamed of great nuance. Her designs, especially men’s clothing, were inspired by some kind of precious, sometimes hunky flow. Still, she was obsessed with fit and cut and could spend hours fixing the hem and shoulders of her pants. He had an ideal of perfection in mind, but it was about freedom, not control.

Givenchy etiquette.
Givenchy etiquette.

Williams actually steered her towards a more gothic version of clothing making, while her love for fabrics and fits, and her control over her palette of references, led her to black and disciplinary clothing. Looks like he’s wearing it. He is probably too conservative in his views and certainly too obsessed with his references, especially his interest in sewing combined with carved neoprene, which he feels is outdated. But he makes really great products. If you’re not allergic to logos I’d buy those big stomper shoes and pumpkin raffia bags, and maybe a crazy laundry bag. The question is whether Williams want We are chasing for fun or something. In the latter case, he needs to be prepared to confront and be humiliated. (The partnership with Shin suggests he might.) Curiously, a little bit in life, with a fresh young stylist, an unlikely photographer, and a museum outside Caldassian Industrial Park. If one adds tension, it looks radically different. More relaxed, more personal, and perhaps most important, more freedom.


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